Curly Hair Girl Glossary

Accordion Technique - Wash n’ Go technique to produce well formed, highly-defined coils/curls; this is achieved while tilting head with hair soaking wet, then apply curling cream/curl gel, then put hair in palm and press into scalp

ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) - when diluted with water ACV can be used to restore pH balance of the hair; works to close the hair’s cuticles, making it less frizzy and increase shine; ACV rinse: mix ¼ cup ACV and 2 cups water

Afro - very popular natural hairstyle, often referred to as a ‘fro; typically requires picking the hair into a rounded shape around the head

Baggy Method - apply moisturizer and cover hair with plastic bag or shower cap to trap body heat for expedited product absorption into hair’s cuticle; helps to reduce breakage, split ends and dryness

Banding - styling technique used to prevent shrinkage; gather hair into ponytail, secure using elastic bands, one after the other all the way down near the ends; leave bands in for a period of time, or until the hair air dries

Bantu Knots - hairstyle created by twisting sections of hair and wrapping them into neat knots; can be secured with bobby or hair pin

BC (Big Chop) - cutting off portions of relaxed hair during the transition process

Bobby or Hair Pin - type of hair pin, usually metal or plastic, used to simply hold hair in place or for an elaborate hairstyle

Bonnet/Scarf - used to preserve a hairstyle or curls, and protect the shape, while also avoiding breakage due to friction between hair and cotton; suggested to use silk or satin bonnet/scarf

Braid Out - a hairstyle created by three strand braiding on wet or damp hair; after hair is dry, the braids are carefully released and styled, giving hair less body b/c it stretches the hair more; works well on shorter hair

Breakage - when hair breaks due to manipulation and/or excessive dryness; can be reduced by limiting manipulation with heat tools, styling, washing, chemical processing, and increasing moisturizing frequency

Carrier oil - also known as base oil; used to dilute essential oils that, when used on their own, may irritate or burn the scalp or skin; common carrier oils are olive, grapeseed and Vitamin E oil

Clarify - cleansing process to thoroughly remove buildup of oils, styling products, environmental elements and chlorine; can be done using clarifying shampoos, bentonite clay mixes or baking soda

Clumping - happens when strands of hair gather together (“clump”) to form bigger, chunkier curls or coils

Cocktailing - mixing and matching of several different product and/or raw ingredients to create a specific style, or achieve the ideal curly hair goal

Coily - term used to describe natural, textured hair type 4

Co-Wash - short for conditioner wash; practice of cleansing the hair using conditioner in place of shampoo

Coconut Oil - ingredient derived from coconuts; quickly and deeply penetrates the hair shaft; rich in vitamins and minerals that nourish, tame frizz and leave hair with a brilliant shine. Great for hair, body and face.

Cornrows - hair intertwined closely to the scalp using braiding techniques that may involve three or more sections of hair

Crown - center region of scalp atop of head; tends to be more sensitive, especially to those considered tender headed

Deep Condition - thick products formulated with ingredients that moisturize, strengthen and/or provide damage-repair to hair; applied right after cleansing, penetrating the hair for 15-30 mins using with mild heat

Density - measure of how closely individual strands of hair are packed together on your scalp; ranges from low to high

DIY (Do it Yourself) - taking control of the ingredients that go into your hair products by making them at home

Dusting - slight trimming of hair about ¼ inch or less; amount trimmed is so small that it appears as dust; typically done between full trims

Edges - hair around hairline, including “baby hairs”, which are sometimes styled into elaborate designs; women take extra care around their edges as they have a tendency to break off easily causing hair loss on the hairline

Essential Oil - potent liquids derived from flowers, grasses, fruits, leaves, roots, trees or plants; known for their healing properties and aromatic scents; known to nourish the hair and scalp; suggested to dilute with a carrier oil because of potency

EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) - used as a natural hair care product for shine/sheen; one of the few oils that penetrate the hair shaft; considered a natural sealant that locks in moisture inside hair shaft; can be used to pre-poo, deep condition, oil rinse and seal

Flat twist - technique where the hair is two-strand twisted flat into scalp, in cornrow fashion

Fluff - use of fingers or a hair pick to add volume and shape to natural hair

Frohawk - hairstyle where the sides of an afro are flattened to the scalp, either by smoothing/pinning or shaving; center of hair is left high and free, in the shape of a distinct Mohawk

Hair Goals - phrase used when one girl sees another with absolutely perfect hair/hair style

Hair Type (1; 2a/b/c; 3a/b/c; 4a/b/c) - hair typing is a system that classifies hair texture based on curl pattern, density, width and porosity, to determine how best to care for, and style hair;

type 1-naturally straight; type 2-loose wavy; type 3-curly hair; type 4-coily hair; types 3 and 4 have sub-classification of a-c based on diameter of hair curl and coil; 3a curl diameter of a nickel; 3b curl diameter of a dime; 3c curl diameter of a straw; 4a coil diameter of a knitting needle; 4b coil diameter of an ink pen spring and can bend in sharp “z” shaped angles; 4c even smaller with a very tight zigzag pattern, and no coil at all. Discover your Hair Type now.

Holy Grail - tried and true product that has achieved good results and one remains loyal to

Humectants - another word used for moisturizer; product that adds moisture to the hair; humectants in hair products help draw moisture from air into hair shaft

JBCO (Jamaican Black Castor Oil) - Is a humectant with a thick consistency which contains fatty acids to nourish the hair and prevent dry scalp. Dry, damaged hair and constant manipulation from styling can impede hair growth and even cause hair loss. Jamaican Black Castor Oil has gained popularity over the recent years for it’s growth benefits for both hair and eyebrows.

Jojoba Oil - non-greasy, moisturizing hair oil most similar to the sebum produced by sebaceous glands in your scalp

KinkyCurlyKoily - natural hair care resource

Leave-in - conditioner is a lightweight, watery product that is formulated to add moisturising properties to the hair without the buildup of a regular conditioner; product can be applied to hair with no need to rinse out

Length Check - technique performed to stretch, measure and record the length of the hair in the five major sections: front, back, right side, left side, crown

Tip 1: Pick the right tools for the long haul. Use the same marked shirt for every length check; if using a tape measure make sure you have help-a second set of hands can hold the measure while you hold your hair in a stretched state.
Tip 2: Have at least 2-3 points of reference. Hair grows at different rates on different areas of your head. Having multiple references or checkpoints for your length will help you keep things into perspective.
Tip 3: Always grab the same areas. This assures that you have consistent points of reference for photos.
Tip 4: Avoid angles. Try to keep head straight in order to be as accurate as possible.
Tip 5: Don’t do a check too often. Most hair grows between half an inch to an inch each month. Wait at least 3 weeks between checks so you don’t become discouraged-but once every 30 days is ideal.
LOC Method-method stands for applying product in the following order: LOC-liquid or leave-in conditioner, oil and cream; this ensures long-lasting, moisturized hair in between wash days by locking in moisture due to it’s layering process with the last step making it great for natural curls to pop

LCO Method - method stands for applying product in the following order: LCO-liquid or leave-in conditioner, cream and oil; this ensures long-lasting, moisturized hair in between wash days by locking in moisture due to it’s layering process with the last step making it great for relaxed hair to shine

Manipulation - the ways in which you handle your hair; the less you manipulate your hair, the less breakage you will have

Moisturizer - product that includes humectants to attract and hold water molecules from the environment

Naturalista - someone who wears their hair with pride, the way that it grows naturally out of their scalp

NaturallyCurly - natural hair care resource

No Heat - styling hair over a period of time without using a flat iron, blow dryer or curling iron; without these tools, hair can be refreshed, rejuvenated and restored for healthy hair looks

Paraben - preservatives commonly used in cosmetic products

Pineapple - to gently gather hair atop crown with a hair tie to preserve curls for second day hair; also provides some stretch to hair

Plopping Method - method includes wrapping wet hair in t-shirt or microfiber towel, while bending at the waist, in order to quickly but gently absorb excessive water that would drip otherwise; performed after cleansing, conditioning and/or applying a liberal amount of styling gel or cream

Porosity - the measure of how easily your hair is able to absorb and hold moisture, and chemicals; varying degrees of porosity, most common are: high, medium, low

Pre-Poo (Poo) - applying oils, conditioners and other treatments to the hair prior to shampooing to enhance moisturization and conditioning during cleansing

Product Junkie - a person who buys a lot of different products and brands in the quest of finding the “perfect” ones for her hair

Protective Styling - a hairstyle that helps protect hair from dehydration and damage’ eliminating the need for manipulation (combing/brushing) and shielding against environmental exposure (sun/heat/wind/cold)

Protein Treatment - deposits protein structures on the hair’s cuticles in order to replace the protein that was lost through manipulation, chemical processing and aging; advised to incorporate into regimen only once a month

Raking - creates perfectly defined curls by applying liberal amount of product to wet, sectioned hair and then using fingers in a raking motion from root to tip, to detangle and smooth; when fingers reach hair’s end, shake at the wrist to encourage curl formation

Reversion - when your straight hair reverts back to it’s naturally curly state

Sealant - something that seals moisture into the hair shaft; can be different types of oil, and certain alcohol free/silicone free gels

Set (Rod/Sponge) - heatless method of stretching natural hair, as well as a protective style; using flexi-rods or sponge curlers to set wet or blown-out hair; great for achieving voluminous curls without the use of heat

Shedding - very normal, when hair fills your brush or comb with long strands; one can she up to 200 strands a day, more depending on stress level and health; when hair is not manipulated for a period of time you may experience shedding at a higher number

Shingling - Wash n’ Go style applying a liberal amount of curl cream and curl gel, section by section to clean, very wet hair; each section is smoothed downward between thumb and forefinger, from root to tip

Silicone - also known as “cones”; a synthetic compound found in many conditioners ad gels; acts as as sealant for hair, but does not allow more moisture to get into the hair shaft, creating product buildup; can usually be removed by using sulphates/sulfates, found in many drying shampoos

Silk Press - upgraded version of a traditional press and curl; flat iron is warmed and then used to get hair straight, shiny, silky, soft and gives hair a lot of body and movement, with the help of hair product such as a light oil

Slip - term referring to how wassy it is to detangle; good amounts of slip in conditioners make it easier to separate curls, specifically when wet

Spray Bottle - natural hair necessity used to rehydrate dull curls, allowing you to shape, moisturize and stretch hair without soaking or re-wetting the whole head; spritzing the hair with water is the best way to refresh your curls in between washes (great for 2nd day hair as well)

Steam Treatment - this treatment is beneficial as the heat aids in hydrating dry hair leaving your parched tresses happy; steam lifts the hair cuticle allowing your treatments to penetrate deeply into the hair shaft helping to heal damaged hair; the moist heat also encourages blood flow to circulate, promoting hair growth

Sulphates/Sulfates - what cause many shampoos to create a bubbly lather; they strip hair of of its natural oils and cause curls in particular to become dry and frizzy

“The Kitchen” - phrase used to describe the tangled/knotted hair at the base of a woman’s head

Transitioning - can be referred to as “going natural”; process where one’s natural/textured hair is allowed to grow in, while previously chemically treated hair is trimmed off in stages or a “big chop” is done

TWA - Teeny Weeny Afro; this refers to a relatively compact afro; many women have a TWA after they big chop to start their natural hair journey

Twist Out - a hairstyle created by two strand twisting on wet or damp hair; after hair is dry, the twists are carefully released and styled, giving hair more body b/c the hair is stretched more; works well on slightly longer hair

Two Day Hair/2nd Day Hair - hair that looks good enough to wear the day after wash day; revive and refresh with a misting of water or a little product

Virgin Hair - chemically unprocessed human hair, not altered by dyes, perms, bleaches or harsh washes

Wash Day - a day of the week that a natural girl washes her hair and is a crucial part of maintaining clean hair, and preventing tangling and matting; this process includes detangling, washing, styling and using products to maximize moisturization and shine

WnG - Wash n’ Go; relatively quick and easy natural hair styling; on clean and conditioned hair curls/coils are defined with gel or styling cream and then left to air dry